Traditional DSLRs vs Mirrorless

The results will surprise you

 

DSLRs have long been the choice of professional photographers. But now due to smaller size, price, and performance, Mirrorless cameras are making a big statement in a smaller package.

 

So many photographers get hung up on Full Frame DSLRs. While they are very capable, and produce amazing results, the new crop of high end Mirrorless cameras are truly making their mark in the realm of digital photography. The lack of a mirror makes these cameras faster then most DSLRs.  And while the ergonomics do not lend themselves to shooting sports, the cameras are very capable of being used in the studio with stunning results.

They are smaller in most cases and can produce images that entry level DSLRs simply cannot come close to. I myself have worked with the Fuji XPro 1 and found it to be as good a machine for capturing digital images as any camera I have tested including the Nikon D800, D4 and the Canon 5D III.  Smaller versions of the Fuji are the X100 and the new Fuji x-e1 which when paired with the 35mm F1.4 is an amazing little machine. Olympus has the OM-D which is a little Mighty Mouse with a Magnesium Alloy Body and when purchased in a kit with the 12-50 lens the entire system is splash proof. While I understand the benefits of the traditional DSLR these little mirrorless cameras are making their mark in a big way because of size price and portability. So don't close your mind to the idea that only a DSLR will do....for studio photographers many of these Mirrorless cameras will out perform most if not all entry level DSLRs such as the Canon Rebel line and the Nikon D3100, D3200, D5100 and in many cases even the Canon 7D and Nikon D7000 when matched against each other in the studio. Think outside of the box! The link below is to an article that tested the Fuji XPro 1

Fuji XPro 1 review

Lighting for different looks

Rembrandt?  But I am not a painter!

There are many different ways to light your studio portraits.  I want to cover some of the more popular ones, as well as how to employ them in your photography.

Rembrandt Lighting - Rembrandt lighting when properly employed will result in a triangle forming under the eye of the subject, on the shadow side of the face.  Depending on how much contrast you want in the shot you can use a reflector on the shadow side or nothing at all.

Typically you would set your main light at a 45% angle to your subject and if you are using a reflector you would set that up opposite of the main light to fill the shadows.  Adjust the lights as you need to in order to get the desired look.

Butterfly Lighting - Butterfly lighting creates the shape of butterfly shadow directly beneath the nose.  To create this type of light the nose should point in the direction of the light.  The light should be elevated high enough to cast a downward shadow.  I typically use only the hair light and set it above the head pointing at the subjects face and adjust the intensity based on how heavy I want the shadow.

Flat Lighting - This type of lighting is when there are no shadows on the faces of the subject.  It is commonly used by studios for standard portraits.  To achieve this type of lighting you set two lights at a 45% angle to your subject.  I usually also add a hair and a back light to this type of shot in increase the depth of the portrait.

Low Key - This type of lighting accentuates the contours of the subjects face by creating shadows which are controlled by how much fill is used to open those shadows and control the amount of contrast.  Rembrandt lighting is a type of low key lighting.

High Key - This method uses unnaturally bright lighting to blow out most or all harsh shadows in an image.

It is very effective in highlighting your subject, and is also a good way to highlight and showcase various types of  products.

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What's the difference?

Head Shots, Portraits, Etc.

I browse websites and look at photos friends and colleagues ask me to review.  Often they use terms for photos and poses incorrectly.  It may not seem important at first, however there is a method to the madness.

Head Shots

These are probably the most miscategorized.   A head shot is exactly that.  They are usually required by the acting industry.  They should be cropped tightly (from the collarbone or just below).  The mistake often made when shooting this type of shot is the cropping.  Although it is not an absolute rule you should try to show both ears in the photo.  Head shots are used for a variety of media, (auditions, resumes, annual reports).  With this in mind you should pose your subject with an expression that will best reflect its intended use.

Portraits

Portraits have a broader spec and give the photographer more freedom in cropping and posing.  Typically the crop drops down to just below the breast.  For woman you may drop down a little farther.  Keeping the shoulders at a 45% angle works best to keep your subject in proportion, however you have much more freedom to express your creativity when shooting portraits.  As such your goal should be to create an image that enhances your subject in the best possible light (pun intended).

A subcategory here is a hand pose.  You can bring the hands up to the face, or in a longer shot have the subject hook their thumb in their pants pocket which is a good male pose.  It usually means having more of the subjects body in the crop.  This is a nice addition to any session and adds a different look and dimension to your portrait.

Full Length

I seldom take full length standing photos of any one except a bride.  In fashion standing poses are used more often to showcase clothes, shoes and accessories.  But keep in mind that Full Length does not mean standing. It means the entire subjects body is showing in the image.  I often have the subject on a table or sitting on the floor.  Then I crop so that their entire body is in the shot.  Doing this allows for more creative ways to pose someone.

You can get more information on posing techniques in my previous blog Posing like a Pro

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Portrait Photography Tips

I get asked all the for tips on taking portraits.  So I thought I would dedicate this blog for the purpose of sharing a few of the more important ones.

First,  more important than being sure to get the exposure right is to make your subject comfortable.  I have often said that many of my photography colleagues have forgotten things I never learned. But what makes me good at what I do is that I can connect with my client and get them relaxed.  I believe that it is impossible to take bad photograph of a relaxed subject. So how do we get there?  First of all you as the photographer need to be relaxed.  Although I still get butterflies before a wedding or big event the one thing I am confident of is that I will be able to get a good exposure and deliver something the client will like.  In order to get your client to relax be sure the prep them before the shoot.  Detail for them what you will be doing.  Advise them on what will work well in terms of clothes, makeup etc.  Remember you are the expert and your client will look to you for advice on how to be at the best for the shoot.

Have a sequence of shots in mind.  Each portrait session should have a Head Shot, a Portrait Pose (from the midriff up) and a hand pose.  Once you have gotten a few good shots of this type your subject should be relaxed enough to move onto more creative shots.

Introduce a prop.  It should be in scale.  I have often seen babies being photographed at the mall with a bunny for Easter that looks 7 feet tall and you literally have to search the photo for where the child is.  I have a few basic items I use.  One is a 40" column.  I use it for hand posing and if I need more height I just place it on a box.  Something as simple as a hat works well also.  However you should remember to do this shot last so the subjects hair does not become an issue during the shoot.  In your prep for the shoot when talking to the client ask them to bring something along that defines them.

Change your angle of view.  Move around the subject and get different angles especially with subject who's hair lays heavily to one side.  Have them look at the camera then away for different looks.

Focus on different aspects of them and crop tight with a wide open aperture to create a depth.

If you are comfortable play around with the lighting once you have gotten several good exposures.  Turn off your fill light, just shoot with the hair light, place colored gels on your back light.  Take a shot using the Rembrandt lighting technique or Butterfly lighting.

Break the rules of composition.  Move your subject around in the view finder.  Place them to one side of the crop.  Get creative.  Just be sure that the eyes are always in sharp focus as you move around creating different looks.

Keep shooting even as your client is prepping for the next shot.  Some of the best shots I have gotten where unplanned but I would never tell the client that especially if it turns out to be a great shot!

Here is an example of using some of the tips mentioned in this blog.

From Matt Fox's CD Cover Shoot

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Lighting Your Outdoor Portraits

Let There Be Light

I know there are a quite a few photographers who believe using natural light is the only way to shoot.  And while I agree that stunning portraits can be had using natural light alone, a little fill light from flash or a reflector can control where shadows fall and can enhance rather then detract from your outdoor portraits.

The basis of the medium of photography is light.  With that in mind the more light you can bring to your portraits, and the more you can control that light, the better your portraits will be.  The main benefit of using additional light (flashes, reflectors) is to control the shadows and stray light that can cause distracting hot spots and shadows to fall on your subject.  The benefit of shooting with additional light is to highlight the subjects eyes and hair.  There is a vibrancy that is lost if additional light is not added to the portrait.  The hair goes flat and the eyes look dark and without life.  How many times have you heard someone comment on a photo by saying "There eyes are so bright"  especially when commenting on a photo of a child.  It's not the eyes that are bright but rather the reflection of light in the eyes.  The added light makes them come alive.

The kind of light you use, reflected, strobe, or flash gun is not as important as it is to just simply use the additional light to your advantage and to the advantage of your subject.

The above photos are an example of using flash outdoors.  On the right the models eyes are dark and her hair looks muddy and without texture.  On the left her eyes are alive and her hair shows all the wonderful texture of each curl and wave.  Both photos were taken at the same location, time of day and in sequence.  I exaggerated the amount of light to show the difference in detail.  A softer broader light would still give the feel of natural light and can be achieved by using a diffuser.

So pack your flash, invest in a reflector (the bigger the better) and pray for open shade (the best time to shoot outdoors is an overcast day which gives broad even light, or under the umbrella of a large tree).  And never forget that light is the currency of success for your outdoor portraits.

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Macro Photography

1 to 1

Macro photography is a great way to show your creative eye and to see things up close and personal.  "Macro" by definition means large scale, and in photography when employing "Macro" photography we are often photographing small subjects (bugs, small portions of flowers or leaves).  We are then showing the images at 5 times their actual size to emphasize the texture, color and overall detail of our subject.

There are specialized lenses for this type of photography, however even compact digital cameras can render outstanding results by using the cameras built in "Macro" mode.  When you look at lenses, often they will claim to be "Macro" lenses. But true "Macro" lenses give a 1 to 1 ratio and are often used to photograph stamps, coins and bugs.  These lenses are always prime lenses.  Although many zooms will claim to be "Macro" lenses they do not give the 1 to 1 ratio that a prime macro lens will.  What they will do is allow you to focus at a closer distance then a standard lens will.  As an example the closest a lens will auto focus may be 3 feet.  A "Macro" lens will allow auto focusing as close as 6 to 8 inches and almost always, at least the very least 1 foot.

Now lets talk about taking a "Macro" photograph.  You should always pay close attention to your background.  Try to ensure that there is nothing distracting in the background.  Be sure you are not casting a shadow on your subject, and set your camera flash to "Fill" which will help show your subject in greater detail and eliminate any shadows being cast by elements around your subject that cannot be avoided.  If you do not want to use flash you may have to employ a tripod for longer shutter speeds to eliminate camera shake.  Also when shooting a subject like a flower, shoot it at different angles and positions.  Be sure to crop in the camera rather then in the post process. This will allow you to print larger and with more detail which will otherwise be lost if you crop deeply into the photo after.

Now that you are armed with the information you need go out and shoot.  One of the best things about this type of photography is that you don't have to go far.  Your backyard, the fruit bowl on your counter top, or the flower arrangement in your living room, are all possible subjects for your "Macro" photography.  Good luck and happy shooting.

The above photos were taken with a non macro 28mm 2.8 lens. 

George's website

Home Portrait Studio

 Setting up a home photography studio

Do you own a DSLR?  Do your friends love your photography?  If you can answer yes then maybe a home portrait studio is just what you need.  It's easier then you think.  For about 500.00 dollars (not including camera, lenses and light meter) you can set up a studio in your home.

First lets talk about 2 types of lighting you can consider.  "Continuous light" is the most affordable option.  These light are constantly on.  The benefit of this setup is that you don't need a light meter.  Your camera will read the amount of light and use the built in meter to set the correct shutter and aperture for you.  You will also see where the light is falling on your subject and gives you great control over shadows.  Typically you would want 3 lights at a minimum.  1 main, 1 fill and 1 back light.  However if you intend to use a black background with dark hair subjects you will need to add a 4th light or hair light to your studio configuration.  This light puts light on the hair which helps to aid in adding dimension to your portraits  This type of light now comes in two types "Tungsten" and "CFL".   The tungsten lights can get very hot and burn out frequently.  The CFL's are a better option since they last longer (10,000 hours) and are cool.  This type of light has its draw backs also.  As the wattage gets larger so does the physical size of the bulb so you need a larger diffuser.  They also don't give off the same amount of light so more bulbs are required to produce the same brightness as using the hotter shorter lived tungsten bulbs.

Now lets talk about the second option "Strobe Lighting".  This type of lighting is a bit more expensive and more difficult to use.  It requires a light meter to ensure the correct settings on your camera, and replacing light tubes can be expensive and need to be ordered.  A modeling lamp is provided by these lights and allows a preview of where the shadows are falling.  With that said however care needs to be taken so you don't get shadows on the backdrop.  Strobes are used most frequently by pro's, but I am currently using continuous lights in my studio and am very pleased with the cost of running them and bulb replacement.  Another consideration when using this type of light is that not all DSLR's have a socket built into the camera to fire them.  So in many cases a hot shoe adapter needs to be added to the cost of this setup.

Now that you have decided which system works best for you go ahead and setup your home studio and start on your way to making your camera pay for itself.

For more information about lighting check out my previous blog on color temperature

Come into Lakeside Camera Photoworks to see our array of studio lighting currently on clearance!

 

George's Website